A pastrami sandwich on a plate at a diner in Seoul

Eating and Drinking My Way Through Seoul

Seoul days have a rhythm: coffee, food, coffee again, something sweet, one more coffee. This one wandered through a few neighborhoods and never once went hungry.

Iced drinks on a diner table in Seoul

The diner stop

A plate of meatballs at a diner in Seoul

A pastrami sandwich at a diner in Seoul

Around Seongsu-dong — the old warehouse district turned cafe strip — you can find diner-style plates that would pass in the States. A stacked pastrami sandwich, a plate of meatballs, cold sodas in glass bottles. It’s an odd thing to eat in Seoul and that’s exactly why it works.

A cross-section of a reuben sandwich

Sweet, then coffee

A bowl of fresh strawberries for dessert

Iced drinks on an orange cafe table

A flat white on a cafe table in Seoul

A cafe interior with a pendant lamp in Seoul

Every neighborhood in Seoul has its own cafe personality — Seongsu goes industrial, the older quarters go quiet and brick-lined — but the drinks are serious everywhere. An iced latte in July or a flat white at a corner table; either way, there’s always one more stop.

The surprise

A pet rabbit on a leash on a Seoul street

And on the way between cafes — a rabbit on a leash, out for a walk like it’s the most normal thing in the world. In Seoul, it kind of is.

More Seoul: the same city in winter, when the alleys fill with snow.